A "wicking pot" is a planter which has a water reservoir in the bottom ::: the reservoir holds water which is wicked up into the soil as needed. This allows less frequent watering, and keeps the soil perfectly moist.

Some of the juice and milk at the grocery store these days comes in some nicely shaped bottles. Here is how I upcycled one into a wicking pot to grow some herbs and flowers in:
recycled wicking pot: cutting the container
First, I cut off the top of the container. I drew a line with a sharpie, level with the top of the "nutrition" information box. Then I carefully cut around the line with a craft knife (aka x-acto blade).

recycled wicking pot: water holes
Then, using the craft knife, I bored 3 holes about an inch or so from the bottom of the container. These are for excess water to escape when the reservoir is full.

recycled wicking pot: gravel water reservoir
I filled the bottom of the container with small gravel (sand would also work) up to the holes. This is the water reservoir - when the plants are watered, water is stored down here, and gradually wicks up into the soil. This way the soil stays moist without being overly wet, and watering can be done less often.

recycled wicking pot: fabric layer
Next I traced the bottom of the container onto an old t-shirt. Then I cut out the circle about 1/2 inch larger. I placed this circle of fabric on top of the gravel, tucking the edges against the sides of the container. The purpose of the fabric is to prevent soil from getting into the water reservoir.

recycled wicking pot: soil
I filled the container with soil, leaving a little bit of space at the top. Then I planted some seeds - I chose purple basil, english thyme, sage, and calendulas. (I know that's a lot for such a small container, but we'll see how it works out).



recycled wicking pot: plant seeds
I added water until the reservoir was full, placed the container in a bright window, and waited for the seeds to sprout.

The outside of the pot could be painted - though I would leave the reservoir clear so the water level could be seen. These would make awesome gifts <3
 
 
Crochet Tutorial: Overlapping Pillow Case
Decorate any old dingy pillow with a beautiful crochet covering!

Very easy to do - you basically make a long strip of fabric 2.5 x the height of your pillow, and stitch the edges together to make an envelope....


2.5x length
Crochet a piece of fabric the same length as your pillow and 2.5 x the height. You can use virtually any stitch pattern - I used the "interlocking rows" stitch.
You want the fabric to fully wrap around the pillow then overlap by approximately 1/2 the height.
Once you have the correct size, sc around the side edge, the bottom edge, and other side edge of the fabric.
End off all yarns and weave in all ends.

placing marker
Wrap the fabric around the pillow, and put a marker in the stitch where the bottom edge will meet up with the side edge.

Picture
Remove the pillow, and fold the fabric how it will go when it's on the pillow, then sl st the edges together beginning at the marker. I like to do "sl st 1, ch 1" - it makes a prettier edging.
Repeat on the other side.

pillowcase button
Pop the pillow inside the case, and sew on a button.
Using the interlocking rows stitch, the last row conveniently had large spaces that made perfect button holes - but you can easily crochet on a button loop if needed.

 
 
This planter is a "wicking pot" without drainage holes - it works great, you just need to be mindful not to overwater. Mine only needs water every 3 weeks or so: when the soil no longer feels moist and the pot feels light-weight.
Crochet Flower Pot
Download PDF version of this tutorial

Materials Required:

  • 1 crocheted pot (“Sabbath Rest Flower Pot” crochet pattern used for the planter in the photos)
  • 1 plant
  • Potting soil
  • Perlite or pebbles
  • 1 Old sock, or scrap fabric
  • 3 Plastic shopping bags
  • Scissors


Protective Barrier
1- Protective Barrier
Place the pot inside a plastic bag. Wrap the bag over the edges of the planter to the inside. This prevents the planter from getting dirt all over it while being stuffed.


Waterproof Liner
2- Waterproof Liner
Place 2 plastic bags inside the planter, one at a time. Smooth them out against the edges of the planter as much as possible, and fold the tops over the edge of the planter to the outside.

Water Reservoir: Perlite Stuffed Sock
3- Water Reservoir
This is optional, but is helpful since the planter will not have a hole in the bottom for excess water to escape. Place some pebbles or perlite into the bottom of the planter. You can either stuff a sock with perlite and coil it in the bottom of the planter, or you can just put an inch or two of perlite in the bottom of the planter and cover it with a scrap of fabric - tuck down the edges of the fabric as best you can - this is to prevent dirt from getting into the water reservoir.


Add Dirt
4- Dirt
Stuff the planter with dirt - leaving a hole big enough for the plant. Try to pack and smooth the dirt against the edges of the planter, shaping it as you go. Stuff as much as you can around the sides up to the top - it can be difficult to fill these spaces after the plant is inside.

Plant
5- Plant
Put the plant in, and complete stuffing the pot with dirt. Keep in mind it is a soft/flexible planter, so the dirt shapes it - make it nicely rounded if you can.

Cut Bags
6- Cut Bags
Cut the two inner bags close to the level of the soil. Be careful not to cut the plant or the planter. Then cut the outer bag, being extra careful not to cut the planter.

Trim bags close
7- Finishing touches
Trim the edges of the bags close to the soil so that they are barely noticeable. CAREFULLY!

Crochet Planter in Hanger
8- Give your planter a home!
This white one was put into a hanger in my kitchen.
Water it from the top - keeping in mind there is a reservoir to catch extra water which should wick up into the soil.

 
 
This could be made using many kinds of rope, I chose to use a crocheted Romanian Lace Cord.
Step 1: Locate a rope, or crochet a cord, length depends on size you want. These are the size results I came up with:
24 inch cord creates a collar which adjusts from 9 inches to 16 inches
30 inch cord creates a collar which adjusts from 13 inches to 21 inches
36 inch cord creates a collar which adjusts from 15 inches to 26 inches
..that ought to cover most dogs.

If you use a crocheted cord, leave long ends to use for sewing later.


Step 2: Tie the adjustable knots. Tighten them so that there is a little resistance to them sliding - you don't want it to adjust too easily.
sew on ring
Step 3: Sew a ring onto one end.

securing knot
Step 4: Sew thread through knot back and forth to secure (so it doesn't come untied) - being careful to NOT sew the knot to the rope disabling it from sliding!

Step 5: Repeat sewing for other knot... and that's it!
ps: this could also be made for cats..
 
 
This cord is attractive, thick and strong, simple & easy to do!
 
 
This technique makes a round crocheted cord which looks like a knitted I-Cord, but it is made with a crochet hook. You can make it as thick as you want by using 2 or more strands of yarn held together, and using any hook size desired.
i-cord 1
1) Ch 2. Pull up loop in 2nd ch from hook.

i-cord 2
2) Remove hook from first loop (pinching the loop between your fingers so that it doesn't come loose). Yo, draw loop through the loop remaining on hk.

i-cord 3
3) Re-insert hook into first loop, yo, draw loop through.

i-cord 4
4) Repeat row 2 instructions

i-cord 5
5) Repeat row 3 instructions

6- ) Continue to repeat steps 2 and 3 until the cord is the length you desire. Finish by drawing a loop through both loops; end off.
 
 
Being a perfectionist, I don't like the little "nubs" left after making a regular sl st join, so I devised the following method to make joins virtually "invisible":
Picture
Single Crochet (SC) Invisible Join:

Cut the yarn and pull the end all the way up through the center of the last sc. Use a yarn needle to weave the end under the 2nd st over, then back down through the center of the last sc (see pic)

Picture
Slip Stitch (Sl St) Invisible Join:

Cut the yarn and pull the end all the way through the last sl st made. Use a yarn needle to weave the end under the sl st you are joining to, and back down through the center of the last sl st (see pic)

 
 
You can make free bike tire patches at home - don't throw away those old tubes! Especially if you have a ton of goat heads in your yard and thus get frequent flats, like me :\
diy-bike-tire-patches-cut-up-old-inner-tubes
All you gotta do is cut out small circles or ovals (about the size of regular patches), rough them up, and stick them on the punctured tube with rubber cement.

Materials Required: old inner tube, scissors, sand paper, rubber cement.



diy-bike-tire-patches-cut-up-old-inner-tubes
Instructions:

1) Cut out a small section of the inner tube. Angle the scissors so that you can bevel the edges as you cut out a circular shape.

2) Rough up the surface of the patch as well as the inner tube you're going to stick it to.

diy-bike-tire-patches-cut-up-old-inner-tubes
3) Apply a thin coat of rubber cement to both surfaces. Stick them together and press and hold for atleast 30 seconds.

4) Allow it to dry for a few minutes before putting the inner tube back in the tire and pumping it up.

diy-bike-tire-patches-cut-up-old-inner-tubes
I made a bunch of these diy patches, and stuffed a few into an empty self-adhesive patch kit box to keep with my bike. (I highly recommend the self-adhesive patches by the way, if you want to buy them - they work great in my experience and it's much easier than using glue)



So all in all, here is another very practical way to reuse old inner tubes!