Decorate any old dingy pillow with a beautiful crochet covering!
Very easy to do - you basically make a long strip of fabric 2.5 x the height of your pillow, and stitch the edges together to make an envelope....
Crochet a piece of fabric the same length as your pillow and 2.5 x the height. You can use virtually any stitch pattern - I used the "interlocking rows" stitch
You want the fabric to fully wrap around the pillow then overlap by approximately 1/2 the height.Once you have the correct size, sc around the side edge, the bottom edge, and other side edge of the fabric.
End off all yarns and weave in all ends.
Wrap the fabric around the pillow, and put a marker in the stitch where the bottom edge will meet up with the side edge.
Remove the pillow, and fold the fabric how it will go when it's on the pillow, then sl st the edges together beginning at the marker. I like to do "sl st 1, ch 1" - it makes a prettier edging.
Repeat on the other side.
Pop the pillow inside the case, and sew on a button.
Using the interlocking rows stitch, the last row conveniently had large spaces that made perfect button holes - but you can easily crochet on a button loop if needed.
This is a really neat stitch - makes a very interwoven fabric - so you can use a larger hook and still not have lots of holes. And it's so fun to play with the colors. You need atleast 3 colors, but can use as many as you want.
Written instructions below, as well as a video demonstration.
- Ch any even amount. Beg 2nd ch frm hk, sc across. Join 2nd color (pull through last 2 lps of last st)
- Ch 1. Turn. Sc 1. *Ch 1, sc 1* across. Join 3rd color.
- Ch 1. Turn. Sc 1. Dc into row 1 st below ch 1 sp (work over the prv row st - not in front of or behind). *Ch 1, sk dc, dc into st below ch 1 sp* across. Sc in last. Change color.
- Ch 1. Turn. *Ch 1, sk dc, Dc into st below ch 1 sp*. Sc in last. Change color.
Repeat until the last row.
[notes: you will change color at the end of every row in the same manner. Just pick up the color that is waiting for you there... every row begins and ends with sc. Always ch 1 to skip a dc. So if there is a dc after the first sc of the row, ch 1 after you make your sc. If there is a dc right before the last st of the row, ch 1 before you make the last sc
- Last row: Ch 1. Sc into ea dc and st below ch 1 sp across.
- Border: *Ch 1, sc across* each edge.
Some projects I did using this stitch:
This planter is a "wicking pot
" without drainage holes - it works great, you just need to be mindful not to overwater. Mine only needs water every 3 weeks or so: when the soil no longer feels moist and the pot feels light-weight.
1- Protective Barrier
Place the pot inside a plastic bag. Wrap the bag over the edges of the planter to the inside. This prevents the planter from getting dirt all over it while being stuffed.
2- Waterproof Liner
Place 2 plastic bags inside the planter, one at a time. Smooth them out against the edges of the planter as much as possible, and fold the tops over the edge of the planter to the outside.
3- Water Reservoir
This is optional, but is helpful since the planter will not have a hole in the bottom for excess water to escape. Place some pebbles or perlite into the bottom of the planter. You can either stuff a sock with perlite and coil it in the bottom of the planter, or you can just put an inch or two of perlite in the bottom of the planter and cover it with a scrap of fabric - tuck down the edges of the fabric as best you can - this is to prevent dirt from getting into the water reservoir.
Stuff the planter with dirt - leaving a hole big enough for the plant. Try to pack and smooth the dirt against the edges of the planter, shaping it as you go. Stuff as much as you can around the sides up to the top - it can be difficult to fill these spaces after the plant is inside.
Put the plant in, and complete stuffing the pot with dirt. Keep in mind it is a soft/flexible planter, so the dirt shapes it - make it nicely rounded if you can.
6- Cut Bags
Cut the two inner bags close to the level of the soil. Be careful not to cut the plant or the planter. Then cut the outer bag, being extra careful not to cut the planter.
7- Finishing touches
Trim the edges of the bags close to the soil so that they are barely noticeable. CAREFULLY!
8- Give your planter a home!
This white one was put into a hanger in my kitchen.
Water it from the top - keeping in mind there is a reservoir to catch extra water which should wick up into the soil.
No school today. We built a fort and sat in it and watched "Wild Things".
About journeying into the inner wilderness
facing the monsters that make us bite
and the courage to hoOoOwwwl ❤
I also finished this awesome crocheted "spectrum pillow case".May make up a tutorial for this one... it's really easy, and really cool.
Hide-out for little Halo men..
It's a holder of small things =)
And it's called Spadey
. <3 ♠ Download PDF ♠ Ravelry ♠
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This could be made using many kinds of rope, I chose to use a crocheted Romanian Lace Cord
Step 1: Locate a rope, or crochet a cord, length depends on size you want. These are the size results I came up with:
24 inch cord creates a collar which adjusts from 9 inches to 16 inches
30 inch cord creates a collar which adjusts from 13 inches to 21 inches
36 inch cord creates a collar which adjusts from 15 inches to 26 inches
..that ought to cover most dogs.
If you use a crocheted cord, leave long ends to use for sewing later.
Step 2: Tie the adjustable knots. Tighten them so that there is a little resistance to them sliding - you don't want it to adjust too easily.
Step 3: Sew a ring onto one end.
Step 4: Sew thread through knot back and forth to secure (so it doesn't come untied) - being careful to NOT sew the knot to the rope disabling it from sliding!
Step 5: Repeat sewing for other knot... and that's it!
ps: this could also be made for cats..